Category Archives: Travel

Sufi Stirrings

The Delhi Sultanate (1206-1526CE) is collectively credited for welcoming into its centuries-long fold Sufi intellectualism even as the Mongols were busy trouncing it back home in Central Asia. Eventually, the Mongols too pushed their way into Hindustan but by then this mystical tradition of Islam, drawn no doubt in equal part by the spiritual mystique of Bhakti thought, had found a firm foothold. The Sufis of yore were philosophers, scholars and poets of immense note, as much as they were itinerant knowledge seekers who established a number of silsilas (orders) in their adopted homes.

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Review: The Kothi, Gurdaspur

IMG_0137The old-worldly Kothi, set at the top end of a tree-lined driveway merging with viridian grounds efflorescent with colour, is a happy marriage between traditional Punjabi and colonial design motifs. It was once part of a rambling ancestral haveli that is today an amorphous result of expanding families and their need for privacy without losing all connectedness.

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Pastoral Punjab Revisited

Last week begged for some quality me-time, elsewhere. No sooner (five hours later if truth be had), I found me in Nawanpind Sardaran, a picturesque little canal-side village just off Gurdaspur in north Punjab. It proved to be most rejuvenating of escapes in recent memory, came as it did with oodles of tea, glorious home-cooked food, endless sun-soaks, refreshing morning walks, languorous evening strolls, and mellifluous birdsong. Though nothing can replicate being there in person, through this pictorial post I attempt to walk you through a day in the life of a Punjab village.

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Mughal Memorabilia In Punjab

Detail - Haji Jamal Tomb

Detail – Haji Jamal Tomb, Nakodar

The Mughals left a large and visible footprint in Punjab given its vantage location on their high road from Agra to Kabul, later Delhi to Lahore. Most notable of these structures are from the reigns of Akbar and Jahangir with the latter contributing towards construction of bridges, digging of wells & tanks, and the repair of bridges. Later Shah Jahan would construct and embellish royal structures, serais and roads. Baolis (stepped wells) and traditional wells can still be spotted in close proximity to resting inns and settlements; they once served both man and animal. This harmonious melding of Indian and Persian influences has bequeathed the land with many striking examples of architectural heritage that includes tombs and bridges across perennial streams.

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