Amritsar Heritage Walk
With my summery affair with the Himalayas temporarily yet firmly in the deep-freeze, I turn a bereft gaze towards that more accessible point of interest: a much-reviled, oft-overlooked, dust-laden, ever-sweltering Punjab. But we’re talking winters here. When it is at its glorious best and welcoming most. When freshly sown fields are turning a tentative green on a less fiery sun’s watch. When frosty mornings merge swiftly into hazy afternoons and smoky evenings. When NRIs descend in their droves for the aptly-termed ‘wedding season’ and that customary visit to the Golden Temple.
Absurdly, my own last visit to Amritsar transpired during a brain-frying ruthless summer. With a relentless sun bearing down on a city plagued by heat-induced somnolentia, it was evident there would be no re-living my gluttonous marathon from an earlier trip. The assigned task out of the way, there was little else to occupy my time, save Punjab Tourism’s newly introduced heritage walk through the historical albeit congested by-lanes of the inner city. Just as well the city had yet to wake up; even better I didn’t succumb to early morning torpor. For it was to unravel an incredible array of traditional town-planning expression hidden from view by time, grime and (metal) twine. Am sharing but a few in this post.
Latticework facade in wood
Painted underside of a chajja (eaves)
Facade: Shiva flanked by angels
Another fine example of the city’s wood-craft tradition
Buxom ladies adorn embellished archways
Chajja underside: one overlooked by the vagaries of time
Classic colonial feature
A curiosity alright
Balcony at Thakurdwara Dariana Mal dedicated to Krishna
Such vibrant frescoes stand nary a chance with continuous clay-oven cooking in an adjoining room by the resident priest
Hanuman and Garud watch over the entrance at the Shahni Mandir
The gnarled and deified Bohar (Banyan) Baba. 500 years old, it remains untouched and buildings are simply built around its branches.
Chitta akhara: serai for (shy?) sadhus
Another sooty yet undeniably brilliant fresco
NOTE: The two hour guided walk commences twice-daily from the Town Hall and culminates at the Golden Temple entrance gate. For more details, I recommend you contact Gurinder Johal at 9815643953.
interesting.
Gurindar Johal Singh is wonderful!! I had the pleasure of meeting him and taking full advantage of his knowledge as a guide.
Yes, he is quite the delight, anecdotes and all 🙂
Some great stuff here. Shiva and his angels are very interesting. Any story there?
I thought so, too; asked around, but couldn’t get a conclusive view. If you ask me, the larger of the winged figures could well be the haveli owner’s departed parents. Depicted as angels in heaven, perhaps?
Awesome. I would love to go on one of these walks.
They have one closer home at Patiala, too. Would you like to go one weekend?
Oh that is wonderful. Sure!
Great. Will plan an outing soon.
Nice.. hopefully will remember this if & when I land up in Amritsar 🙂
Thanks.
Extremely fascinating…this is the first time that I have seen photos of non-religious aspects of the heritage of Amritsar….Stunning photos…you have done a great service to the heritage of Amritsar and of Punjab…Look forward to more.
Thank you! I was pleasantly surprised myself, Chat, given our hard-to-shake scepticism surrounding sarkari affairs. In deed, the entire walk is a well-thought out exercise despite the unsanitary conditions of the inner city.
This is really a great relief from oft repeated Golden Temple shots… now this makes me try the place out…
You won’t be disappointed. Thanks for stopping by 🙂